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The
enigma of the Sanctuary naturally attracted the attention of European
explorers and mountaineers of the nineteenth and early twentieth century, but
a route over the walls of mountains surrounding the Nanda Devi Sanctuary
appeared to be impossible. The problem was finally solved by Eric Shipton and
Bill Tilman in 1934 in the first of their great Himalayan expeditions. They
forced a way up a river gorge and became the first human beings to set foot
in the Sanctuary. Above them was the
towering spire of Nanda Devi itself, 10,000ft above the amphitheatre. Herds
of blue sheep who had never seen humans before grazed on pastures full of
alpine flowers. There were wild snow leopards and bears who were equally
unafraid of man. This exploit of exploration was followed by Tilman's
successful ascent of Nanda Devi in 1936. The onset of war
soon afterwards meant that the Sanctuary remained un-visited for a number of
years, and was then closed to travellers for political reasons right up until
the seventies, when a brief window opened for expeditions. However in 1983
the Indian government again closed the Sanctuary. The delicate ecology of
this hitherto pristine space needed time to regenerate after the inevitable
damage caused even by the few expeditions and shepherds who were able to find
their way in. Now twenty years
later the Sanctuary has again just been entered by an expedition led jointly
by Eric Shipton’s son, John Shipton, and the great Indian mountaineer Colonel
Narinder Kumar, who as a young man led the first successful Indian ascent of
Nanda Devi. Together with Steve Berry of Himalayan Kingdoms, they managed to
secure permission from the Indian Government for an exception to the
previously iron-clad rule that no one may enter the Sanctuary. Hugh Thomson was lucky
enough to join this quite unique expedition, which recaptured some of the
exhilaration felt by Shipton and Tilman when they first saw it in 1934 - the
feeling of entering a lost world. As he did in The White Rock, Thomson weaves the
story of his own journey together with those who have gone before him, giving
a tantalising account of a place one explorer described as ‘more inaccessible
than the North Pole’. . |